A garden bench is one of the most rewarding projects you can build with basic tools. It lives in your backyard for years, handles sun and rain, and every time someone sits down on something you made with your own hands, you feel it. This guide walks you through building a solid 1.5-metre classic garden bench from dressed pine — the kind that looks like it belongs in a country garden but takes only a weekend to build.
What You Need Before You Start
This bench is designed for a complete beginner. You need a circular saw or mitre saw, a drill/driver, a tape measure, sandpaper (80 and 120 grit), and basic clamps. No router, no lathe, no dovetails. The joinery is straightforward: pre-drilled holes, 75mm decking screws, and PVA exterior glue on the mortise-and-tenon-style leg joints.
Choose your timber carefully. For an outdoor bench in Australia, you have two practical options:
- Treated pine (H3 rated) — preservative-treated, handles ground contact and moisture. Cheaper. Can be painted or oiled. Available at Bunnings and most trade yards.
- DAR (Dressed All Round) pine — smooth finish, easier to work, takes stain well. Use H3 treatment for outdoor exposure or seal thoroughly with exterior finish.
For a bench that will sit on a patio or deck (not directly in soil), DAR pine is perfectly suitable and easier to work with for beginners.
Cut List — 1.5m Classic Garden Bench
| Part | Qty | Timber Size | Cut Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seat slats | 4 | 90×19mm DAR pine | 1500mm | Laid flat across seat frame |
| Back rails (top & bottom) | 2 | 90×19mm DAR pine | 1500mm | Horizontal rails connecting back legs |
| Back slats | 3 | 70×19mm DAR pine | 400mm | Vertical infill between rails |
| Front legs | 2 | 70×70mm DAR pine | 480mm | Square section, plumb cut top and bottom |
| Back legs | 2 | 90×45mm DAR pine | 900mm | Extend up to form back support |
| Front seat rail | 1 | 90×45mm DAR pine | 1500mm | Runs across front, supports seat slats |
| Rear seat rail | 1 | 90×45mm DAR pine | 1500mm | Runs across back, attached to back legs |
| Side cross members | 2 | 90×45mm DAR pine | 480mm | Connect front and back legs on each side |
Total timber needed: approximately 12–14 linear metres of DAR pine in the sizes listed above. Buy 10% extra for any cuts that don’t go to plan.
Step-by-Step Assembly
Step 1 — Cut all parts to length
Work through the cut list systematically. Use a mitre saw if you have one — it produces cleaner, more consistent cuts than a circular saw for small sections. Label each piece with a pencil as you cut it. Sand the faces of the seat slats and back slats to 120 grit before assembly — it is much harder to sand them once they are screwed in place.
Step 2 — Assemble the two side frames
Each side frame consists of one front leg, one back leg, and one side cross member. Clamp the cross member between the front and back leg so the seat height comes to 440–460mm from the ground (standard bench seat height). Pre-drill all holes with a 3mm pilot bit to prevent splitting. Apply a small amount of exterior PVA glue to the joint face, then drive two 75mm decking screws through the leg into the cross member from each side.
Step 3 — Attach the front and rear seat rails
Stand both side frames upright on a flat surface, parallel to each other and exactly 1500mm apart (outside to outside). Attach the front seat rail to the front legs and the rear seat rail to the rear legs. Check the frame is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner — both diagonals must be equal. Adjust if needed before the glue sets.
Step 4 — Fit the seat slats
Lay the four seat slats across the seat frame. Leave a gap of 15–20mm between each slat — this is the drainage gap that prevents water pooling and the bench rotting from the inside out. A 15mm piece of scrap offcut makes a perfect spacer. The overhang at front and back should be roughly 25–30mm. Pre-drill through each slat into the seat rails, then screw down with 50mm decking screws (countersunk 2mm below the surface, filled later if painting).
Step 5 — Build and attach the back
Lay the two back rails flat on the workbench. Fit the three back slats between them, evenly spaced. Screw together. Now tilt the back assembly against the back legs at an angle of approximately 5–8 degrees from vertical (a slight recline makes it far more comfortable to sit on). Clamp in place, check the angle, then fix with 75mm screws through the back rails into the back legs.
Step 6 — Final sanding and finishing
Go over the whole bench with 120-grit sandpaper, paying attention to all edges and corners — round them slightly so they don’t catch clothing. Wipe down with a damp cloth to raise the grain, let it dry, then give a final sand with 120 grit before applying your chosen finish.
Seat Slat Spacing: Why It Matters
The 15–20mm gap between seat slats is not just aesthetic — it is structural. Water that sits on flat timber works into the grain and begins rot within months in Australian conditions. The gap lets rain drain immediately. It also provides ventilation between uses, which matters in humid climates like Queensland and coastal NSW. Do not go smaller than 15mm or the gaps fill with debris; do not go larger than 22mm or it becomes uncomfortable to sit on.
Finish Options Compared
| Finish Type | Product Example | Durability | Look | Maintenance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Exterior paint | Dulux Weathershield | Very good if recoated every 3–5 years | Solid colour, hides grain | Light sand + recoat when peeling |
| Cabot’s Decking Oil | Cabot’s Australian Timber Oil | Good — penetrates, doesn’t crack or peel | Natural wood look, enhances grain | Clean + recoat every 12–18 months |
| Clear weatherproof finish | Feast Watson Weatherproof Varnish | Moderate — can crack in full sun | Clear, shows natural timber | Sand back and recoat every 2–3 years |
| Decking stain/oil combo | Intergrain UltraDeck | Excellent for treated pine | Coloured or natural, semi-transparent | Annual light recoat on horizontal surfaces |
For a first project, Cabot’s Australian Timber Oil is the most forgiving choice. It soaks in rather than sitting on top, so it never peels and is easy to top up. Two coats on bare timber, let each dry fully between coats.
Protecting the Legs from Ground Moisture
The base of the legs is where rot starts first, even with treated timber. If your bench sits on pavers or a deck, moisture wicks up through the end grain when rain splashes back off the surface. Two solutions:
- Plastic furniture feet — screw-in rubber or plastic feet that lift the leg 10–20mm off the ground. Available at hardware stores for a few dollars. Creates an air gap and eliminates end-grain contact.
- Brass adjustable feet — more elegant, allow you to level the bench on uneven pavers. Insert a T-nut into the base of each leg during assembly, then thread in the brass foot.
- End grain sealer — even with feet fitted, coat all cut ends with two layers of exterior PVA or a dedicated end-grain sealer before finishing. End grain absorbs 10x more moisture than face grain.
If the bench will sit on soil or grass, use H4-treated pine for the legs (rated for in-ground contact) and fit plastic feet anyway. Treat the leg bases with a copper naphthenate timber preservative before assembly.
Ready to Build More?
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