The classic picnic table is the benchmark outdoor project — you can genuinely build a full-sized six-foot table in a single afternoon with basic tools, and when you sit down for dinner at something you built yourself, it hits differently. This guide covers every cut, every angle, and every assembly step for a traditional 1.8-metre (6-foot) picnic table built for Australian conditions. The hardest part is cutting the angled legs consistently — we will show you how to nail that with a simple jig.
Timber Selection for Australian Outdoor Use
For a table that will live outside year-round in Australia, you need timber rated for outdoor exposure. Options from cheapest to most durable:
- H3 treated pine — the go-to choice. Preservative-treated, resists decay and insects. Takes paint and oil well. Widely available at Bunnings in standard DAR sizes. Budget around $80–$120 in timber for this table.
- Merbau decking boards — a hardwood commonly used in AU decking. Naturally durable, beautiful reddish colour. More expensive but outstanding outdoors. Available at most timber yards.
- Spotted gum or blackbutt — native hardwoods with excellent durability. Premium cost but will genuinely outlast the house.
For a beginner’s first build, H3 treated pine DAR is the right call. It is cheap, easy to work, and if you make a mistake you can replace a piece without much pain.
Cut List — 1.8m (6-Foot) Classic Picnic Table
| Part | Qty | Timber Size | Cut Length | Angle | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tabletop boards | 5 | 140×38mm DAR pine | 1800mm | Square ends | Laid across top; 10mm gaps between boards |
| Seat boards | 4 | 140×38mm DAR pine | 1800mm | Square ends | 2 per side, 10mm gap between |
| Legs | 4 | 90×90mm DAR pine | 900mm | 65° both ends | Critical: matching angles, same direction |
| Top frame rails (side) | 2 | 90×45mm DAR pine | 1600mm | Square ends | Run under tabletop lengthwise; support boards |
| Top frame rails (cross) | 2 | 90×45mm DAR pine | 680mm | Square ends | Cross-members connecting side rails |
| Seat support rails | 4 | 90×45mm DAR pine | 380mm | Square ends | Connect leg to seat boards on each side |
| Centre diagonal brace | 2 | 90×45mm DAR pine | Approx 950mm | Angled to fit | X-bracing between leg pairs; prevents racking |
Hardware: 75mm and 100mm galvanised decking screws, 10×120mm galvanised coach bolts with washers and nuts (4 per leg pair), exterior PVA glue, 6mm coach bolt drill bit.
The Hardest Part: Cutting the Leg Angles
The angled legs are where beginners struggle. Each leg must be cut at 65 degrees at both ends — and both ends must be parallel (angled the same direction, not opposing). If you cut them wrong, the table will wobble and look wrong. Here is how to get it right every time.
Setting Up the Jig
You have two good options for cutting consistent 65-degree angles:
- Mitre saw with adjustable bevel — set the bevel angle to 25 degrees (which gives you a 65-degree cut relative to the face of the board). Lock it in, make one test cut in scrap, verify with a protractor, then cut all four legs without moving the setting.
- Adjustable bevel gauge + circular saw — set the bevel gauge to 65 degrees, mark the cut line on your timber, then run the circular saw along the line. Clamp a straightedge guide to the timber to keep the saw tracking true.
The most important thing: once you find the correct angle, cut a test leg in cheap scrap timber first. Lay it on the floor and check that it sits flat at both ends and looks correct. Only then cut your good timber — all four legs in one session without changing the saw setting.
Marking the Legs
Mark the 65-degree cut at each end of the leg. The two cuts must be parallel — that is, when the leg sits flat on the ground it should be on an angle, not vertical. Think of a letter A — the legs on an A frame lean inward toward each other, which is exactly what a picnic table leg does.
Assembly Sequence
Step 1 — Build the tabletop first
Lay the five tabletop boards face-down on a flat surface. Place the two cross-frame rails across them — one about 200mm from each end of the tabletop. Space the tabletop boards with a consistent 10mm gap between each (a 10mm drill bit works perfectly as a spacing tool). Check the frame is square, then screw down through the cross-frame rails into each tabletop board using 75mm screws. Two screws per board per rail, countersunk.
Step 2 — Build the seat assemblies
For each side: lay two seat boards side by side with a 10mm gap. Attach two seat support rails across them (one near each end). The seat assembly is a simple flat panel — it will be bolted to the legs later. Screw through the rails into the boards.
Step 3 — Assemble the A-frame leg pairs
Take two legs and form an A shape. Connect them with the top frame cross-rail at the correct height — the top of the cross-rail should sit at the underside of the tabletop, roughly 700mm from the ground. Clamp, check the angle is equal on both sides, then drill through and bolt with 10×120mm coach bolts. Do both A-frames the same way.
Step 4 — Attach the legs to the tabletop
Flip the tabletop upside-down (top face down on padded sawhorses to protect the surface). Set both A-frame assemblies onto the underside of the top, positioned about 300mm in from each end. The long side frame rails should run lengthwise along the underside of the tabletop, connecting both A-frames. Screw the side rails to the cross-frame pieces with 75mm screws.
Step 5 — Bolt the seat boards
Stand the table upright. Position the seat assemblies on each side — seat height should sit at approximately 400–420mm from the ground. The seat assemblies bolt to the outer face of the legs. Drill through and use coach bolts. Check the seats are level.
Step 6 — Add diagonal bracing
Cut the two diagonal braces to fit between the A-frames in the centre of the table. These run in a shallow X pattern and prevent the table from racking sideways. Measure the exact length needed (it will vary slightly depending on your actual dimensions) and cut both ends at matching angles. Screw into position.
Finish: Penetrating Oil vs Painted
| Finish | Best For | Application | Recoat Frequency | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Penetrating oil (e.g. Cabot’s, Intergrain) | Natural timber look, treated pine, hardwoods | Brush or rag; 2 coats, sand between | Annually on horizontal surfaces | $30–$50 per litre (covers 8–10m²) |
| Exterior enamel paint | Painted look, kids’ tables, covering knots | Primer + 2 top coats | Every 3–5 years | $40–$80 total for primer and paint |
A penetrating oil is far less work for ongoing maintenance — when it fades, just clean and recoat. Paint looks sharp but requires more surface prep when it eventually chips.
Ready to Take On More Projects?
Once you have built this picnic table you will have mastered angled cuts, structural joinery, and working with outdoor timber — the foundation skills for everything from garden furniture to sheds. If you want detailed measured plans that go beyond written guides, Ted’s Woodworking has over 16,000 projects with full blueprints, cut lists, and assembly drawings.
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