A King-size bed is one of the most satisfying DIY furniture builds you can take on — not because it is technically complex, but because the scale of it is impressive and the cost savings are real. A basic King bed frame from a furniture chain will set you back $400–$800. Build your own from structural pine and you can do it for under $150 in materials. This guide shows you exactly how, using an Australian King size of 1830×2030mm, pocket-hole joinery throughout, and a robust slat system that will outlast anything flat-packed.
Understanding the King Size Challenge
The Australian King mattress is 1830mm wide — 300mm wider than a Queen. That extra width changes the structural requirements significantly. At this span, you cannot rely on corner frame joints and slats alone. You need a centre support beam running the length of the bed, and that beam needs a minimum of three legs underneath it (one at each end of the beam, one in the middle). Without this, the centre of the mattress will sag within months, the slats will eventually crack, and you risk a very uncomfortable collapse at 2am.
Cut List and Materials
| Part | Qty | Dimensions (mm) | Material |
|---|---|---|---|
| Long side rails | 2 | 2030 × 140 × 45 | DAR pine |
| End rails (head + foot) | 2 | 1740 × 140 × 45 | DAR pine |
| Centre longitudinal beam | 1 | 2030 × 140 × 45 | DAR pine or LVL |
| Corner legs | 4 | 90 × 90 × 220 | DAR pine |
| Centre beam legs | 3 | 90 × 90 × 220 | DAR pine |
| Slat support ledgers | 2 | 2030 × 38 × 19 | Pine |
| Bed slats | 15 | 840 × 140 × 19 | Pine |
Note on slat length: Each slat spans from one long rail to the centre beam, or from the centre beam to the other long rail — not the full 1830mm width. This halves the unsupported span to 840mm (accounting for the beam width), which is easily within the structural capacity of 140×19mm pine.
Material Cost Breakdown (Bunnings AU$, approx.)
| Item | Qty needed | Pack/unit price | Est. cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| 140×45mm DAR pine, 3.0m | 5 lengths | ~$18 each | $90 |
| 90×90mm DAR pine, 1.2m | 7 pieces | ~$8 each | $56 |
| 140×19mm pine, 2.4m | 6 lengths (cut 15 slats) | ~$10 each | $60 |
| 38×19mm pine ledger strip, 4.2m | 1 length | ~$8 | $8 |
| Pocket hole screws (50mm), 100pk | 1 pack | ~$12 | $12 |
| Structural screws 120mm, 50pk | 1 pack | ~$18 | $18 |
| Wood glue (500ml) | 1 bottle | ~$10 | $10 |
| Total estimate | ~$254 |
You can cut costs further by using construction pine (rough sawn, not DAR) for the hidden internal structure and reserving DAR pine for the visible rails. Construction pine runs about 30% cheaper.
Why Pocket Holes Are Perfect for Bed Frames
A Kreg pocket hole jig is the single best investment you can make for bed-frame joinery. Here is why it suits this build perfectly:
- Strength where it counts: Pocket screws pulled tight create a clamped joint that resists racking — exactly the movement a bed frame experiences every night.
- Easy disassembly: One of the most practical advantages of a DIY bed frame is being able to disassemble it for moving. With pocket holes, you simply unscrew the joints and the bed breaks into flat panels that fit in any vehicle. Mortise-and-tenon or dowel joints do not offer this.
- No clamps needed: Unlike other joinery methods, pocket holes pull the joint tight as you drive the screw. This matters when you are working alone on a large frame.
- Fast: With a Kreg Jig R3 or similar, you can drill and assemble all the main joints in the frame in under two hours.
Use 50mm pocket screws (coarse thread, for softwood) with a suitable pocket hole jig set to the 45mm timber thickness. Two pocket holes per joint is sufficient for the rails; use three for the centre beam connections.
Step-by-Step Assembly
Step 1: Cut and Prepare Timber
Cut all pieces to the dimensions in the cut list. Sand each piece with 80-grit to remove mill marks, paying attention to any rough surfaces on the visible side rails. Mark each piece with a pencil to identify its position (head end, foot end, left rail, right rail).
Step 2: Drill Pocket Holes
Use your pocket hole jig to drill two pockets at each end of both end rails and the centre beam. These join into the face of the long side rails. Set the jig depth collar to suit 45mm stock. Drill from the inside face so the holes are hidden once assembled.
Step 3: Attach Slat Ledgers
Glue and screw the slat ledger strips along the inside face of each long rail. Position the top of the ledger 19mm below the top of the rail. Use 40mm screws at 250mm intervals. Pre-drill all holes — pine splits easily at the ends of ledger strips.
Step 4: Assemble the Main Frame
Lay the two long rails on the floor, inner faces up, 1830mm apart (outer measurement). Clamp the head and foot end rails in position and drive the pocket screws. Apply PVA glue to all mating faces before screwing. Check square immediately with a tape measure across the diagonals.
Step 5: Install the Centre Beam
The centre beam runs the full 2030mm length of the bed, positioned at 915mm from each long rail (half the 1830mm width). Fix it at each end using pocket holes into the end rails, plus joist hangers or angle brackets for extra support at the long rail intersections.
Step 6: Attach All Legs
Legs go at each corner and at three points along the centre beam: each end and the midpoint. Fix each leg with two 120mm screws from above through the rail or beam, plus an angle bracket on two sides. The centre beam legs carry the most load, so add an extra bracket here.
Step 7: Fit Slats
Install the 15 slats on each side of the centre beam. Space them using a 40mm spacer block for consistent gaps (well under the 75mm maximum required by most mattress warranties). One screw per slat end into the ledger is sufficient.
Headboard Options
Option A: Simple Upholstered Panel
Cut a sheet of 12mm ply to 1830mm wide × 600mm tall. Apply 50mm foam (upholstery foam from fabric stores or online) across the front with spray adhesive. Stretch fabric over and staple to the back. Attach to the wall with a French cleat — independent of the bed frame, which keeps the assembly flexible.
Option B: Reclaimed Timber Planks
Source reclaimed hardwood boards — fence palings, deck boards, old floorboards — and fix them horizontally across a simple pine backing frame. Sand back to expose the raw timber and finish with a coat of hardwax oil. Each board will have its own character and colour variation. This style suits industrial, coastal, and farmhouse aesthetics equally well.
Finishing the Frame
Sand the entire frame to 180-grit. For a budget build, a solid stain-and-varnish in a single product (Feast Watson Decking Oil works surprisingly well on interior pine too) takes one afternoon and one coat. For a more refined finish, use a water-based polyurethane — two thin coats, light sand between coats with 240-grit.
For around $150 in materials (if you use construction pine for internal parts and DAR for visible rails), you will have a King bed frame that is structurally sounder than most of what is sold in furniture stores, and far easier to move when the time comes.
Ready for More Furniture Plans?
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